Don’t let winter wreck your spring on Tims Ford

Parking your boat for winter? These five maintenance tips can help Tims Ford Lake boaters avoid costly repairs.

12:30 a.m. Oct. 27, 2026

DUANE CROSS
MCO Publisher•Editor

The summer rush has faded at the boat launches at Anderton Branch, Lost Creek, and Neal's Bridge. Around Tims Ford Lake, boats are coming off the water and finding their way into garages and driveways. Somewhere in Moore County, somebody is already wrestling with a boat cover that never seems to fit quite right.

Fall has settled into Moore County. The mornings have a little bite to them, and when the clocks fall back Sunday, Nov. 1, those late-afternoon trips to the lake will feel even shorter.

That doesn't mean boating season is over for everybody. There are always a few diehards willing to bundle up and chase fish through the colder months. But for folks getting ready to park their boats until spring, there's some work worth doing before the first hard freeze.

Winterizing your boat now can mean the difference between launching on that first beautiful spring Saturday and spending it in the driveway trying to figure out why the engine won't crank.

Here are five things to handle before calling it a season.

1. Get the water out before it freezes

Tennessee winters can be unpredictable. We might enjoy a 65-degree afternoon in December and wake up to temperatures in the teens a few days later.

Water trapped inside an engine doesn't care how mild yesterday was.

For most outboard motors, that means following the manufacturer's winterization procedure and storing the engine in its fully lowered, vertical position so remaining water can drain. Inboards and sterndrives are another story. They often require draining the cooling system or properly circulating marine-rated antifreeze.

And don't forget the rest of the boat. Livewells, washdown pumps, and onboard plumbing can hold enough water to crack a fitting or damage a pump when temperatures drop.

If you're unsure about the procedure for your particular engine, this is one job worth leaving to a marine mechanic. A winterization bill is considerably cheaper than replacing a cracked engine block.

2. Don't let old gasoline ruin your spring

That fuel sitting in your tank isn't getting any younger.

Gasoline can deteriorate during storage, leaving deposits that clog fuel-system components. Ethanol-blended gasoline can absorb moisture during storage, creating additional fuel-system problems if enough water accumulates.

Start with fresh gasoline, add a marine fuel stabilizer according to the product instructions, and run the engine long enough to distribute the treated fuel throughout the system. Never run an engine without the cooling-water supply it requires.

How much fuel should you leave in the tank? That depends on the boat.

Some older boats with vented tanks benefit from being stored about 95% full to reduce condensation while allowing room for expansion. Newer fuel systems may have different requirements, so follow the manufacturer's recommendations rather than relying on the old fill-it-up rule.

Fuel stabilizer is inexpensive, but it won't bring already-stale gasoline back to life. Having a mechanic clean out a gummed-up fuel system in April isn't cheap, either.

3. Change the oil and take a good look at the lower unit

Oil changes aren't just a springtime chore.

For engines that require crankcase oil changes, replacing the oil and filter before winter storage helps remove moisture and contaminants that can cause corrosion while the boat sits idle.

While you're working on the engine, inspect and replace the lower-unit gear lubricant according to the manufacturer's service schedule.

Pay attention to what comes out. If the lubricant looks milky, water may have worked its way inside through a damaged seal. That needs attention before freezing weather arrives.

Check the propeller, too. Fishing line wrapped around the shaft can damage seals, and a nicked prop can affect performance. Lubricate the recommended service points while you're at it.

Depending on the engine, winterization may also include fogging or another manufacturer-recommended procedure to protect internal components from corrosion. Check the owner's manual before calling the job finished.

Finding a worn seal in October is aggravating. Discovering a ruined gearcase in April is considerably worse.

4. Give your battery a fighting chance

There's nothing quite like turning the key on a beautiful spring morning and hearing absolutely nothing.

Before putting the boat away, inspect the battery and clean any corrosion from its terminals.

If you're running a conventional lead-acid battery, fully charge it and follow the manufacturer's recommendations for storage. A compatible battery maintainer can help keep it ready throughout the winter.

Lithium batteries are different. Many manufacturers recommend storing them partially charged rather than at 100%, and cold-weather charging restrictions vary by model. Check the manufacturer's instructions before hooking up a charger or leaving the battery in an unheated location.

If the boat will remain in the water, make sure any battery supplying an automatic bilge pump stays properly connected and maintained.

A little attention now beats borrowing jumper cables at the ramp while everybody else heads out.

5. Clean it, cover it, and remember the trailer

Before parking that pontoon, bass boat, or family runabout, give it a thorough cleaning.

Get the crumbs out of the storage compartments. Remove anything that might attract rodents, and make sure the bilge is dry. Damp cushions and forgotten towels can turn into a mildew problem over the winter.

Use a properly fitted cover with enough ventilation to prevent moisture buildup. Make sure rainwater can't collect in sagging sections.

If you're storing the boat on land, remove the drain plug and position the hull so any water that gets inside can escape. Put the plug somewhere safe, and leave yourself a reminder to reinstall it before launching next spring.

Don't neglect the trailer, either. Inspect the tires for cracking, check the wheel bearings, and make sure the lights work. A boat that's mechanically ready for the lake won't do you much good if the trailer can't make it there.

And here's one more thing worth doing: Keep a written record of what you did during winterization, including anything that needs to be reconnected or checked before the first launch. Come spring, you'll be glad you did.

A little work now, a lot more fun later

Come that first warm Saturday in March or April, nobody wants to be standing in the driveway wondering why the outboard won't crank while the neighbors are already headed toward Tims Ford.

No sense spending the first good boating day with the engine cowling off.